The island West Berlin formed after World War 2 and vanished by the opening of the Berlin Wall in 1989. As part of the 25th anniversary of the fall of the wall, the Stadtmuseum Berlin brings the exhibition West:Berlin – An island in search of its mainland. The exhibition introduces the new spelling West:Berlin to express its independent political view to all visitors whatever their origin: West Berliner, people from Berlin the capital of the GDR, from the FRG, from the GDR, from foreign western countries, from countries belonging to the former Warsaw Pact, or elsewhere. Interestingly, the exhibition is held in the Ephraim Palais, a beautiful exhibition space located in the former eastern part of the city. I had a look.

Ephraim Palais

In 1762, the rich banker and entrepreneur Veitel Heine Ephraim ordered to reconstruct an old pharmacy into the original Ephraim Palais, which was bought by the city of Berlin in 1843. As part of renovation plans in 1935, the Ephraim Palais was demolished to make way for the new city hall district. As the facade of the building was kept in West Berlin, and the construction drawings were left in East Berlin, the palace could not be rebuilt until 1987. In that year the Nicolaiviertel was reconstructed as part of the 750th anniversary of Berlin. After some exchanges with West Berlin, the Ephraim Palais could be rebuilt on its original location in East Berlin. Nowadays it is used for exhibitions by the Berlin Stadtmuseum, such as the current exhibition about West Berlin.

History of West Berlin

In 1945, when World War II ended, Germany was divided into a Russian, American, British and French sector. The four allied forces were supposed to form the democratic republic Germany with capital Berlin. Therefore Berlin held a special status and was divided into four sectors as well. Due to conflicting political interests, the four allied forces did not form a joint administration in Berlin. Instead they each controlled their own sector. Just a few years after the war, Berlin was the center of a new conflict: the Cold War.

In 1949 the three western sectors officially formed the city of West Berlin, a democratic society based on free elections which was closely tied to the FRG. Surrounded by the GDR, a socialistic state, West Berlin became a political enclave. As the infrastructure was cut off by the GDR (except air traffic via Tempelhof), the city was supposed to be as self-supporting as possible. Daily Berlin life went on and people could still travel throughout the entire city, East and West, go to work or visit family.

After some time, the border between East and West Germany was closed. However, because it was still easy to travel from East to West Berlin, many unsatisfied GDR citizens fled their country to West Germany via West Berlin. Between 1949 and 1961 more than 1 million people left the GDR via this escape route, until suddenly, on 13 August 1961, the wall was built by the GDR to prevent its citizens to leave. The border of the cold war became nowhere so/as near as in Berlin, and surrounded by the wall the island West Berlin became an even more unique city.

After fall of the wall in 1989 and the reunification of Germany in 1990, West Berlin lost its special status. Together with East Berlin it formed the city of Berlin, the capital of Germany. The chapter West Berlin has been history for 25 years now.

Life in West Berlin

Being an island enclosed by the socialistic GDR, West Berlin was difficult to reach. Travelling through the GDR by car along the highway was possible, but especially during border controls the GDR was not very cooperative and put up obstacles as much as possible, such as car inspections and other long procedures to increase the waiting time. Berlin was reached via the airports Tempelhof and Tegel as well, and via the Zoologischer Garten railway station, which was the only station left in West Berlin for long distance trains.

Although difficult to reach, West Berlin was an open city. Many opportunities were taken to promote the importance of freedom, especially near the wall, where for example huge loudspeakers, directed to the east, were used to propagate the free word. Dignitary had an obligatory look at the wall during official visits to West Berlin. By living at the front of the cold war, the importance of freedom and democratic rights was clearly felt. A society without these rights was just at the other side of the wall. For this reason critisism was also not easily accepted; it was suggested that you could just leave to the other side if you had complaints.

West Berlin was ruled by the three allied forces, but remained closely tied to the FRG. The West German government strongly supported the city in order to let the small society survive. The economic situation was weak as many industries were gone after World War II. Aided by the friendly economic regulations such as tax advantages there were many jobs in new mechanical and electrical industry. Furthermore scientific institutes were doing well and the fashion industry flourished.

The special status of West Berlin resulted in special regulations as well, such as the exemption from military service, special driving regulations and continuous opening hours for bars. The three allied powers each brought their own cultural values, such as art, music, literature, architecture and fairs. The booming art scene attracted many artists and the alternative scene was large.

Altogether the continuously changing population in West Berlin formed an international, creative and diverse city on a small island.

The exhibition clarifies the history of West Berlin from a political, economic, social and cultural viewpoint. It displays many photos, posters, films and attributes of the West Berlin daily life as well as of many special events.

West:Berlin – An island in search of its mainland

west.berlin
Ephraim Palais Poststrasse 16 10178 Berlin-Mitte
U2 Klosterstrasse S5 S7 S75 Alexanderplatz
Until 28 June 2015
Open Tue Thu Fri Sat Sun 10-18 Wed 12-20
Entrance 7 Euro/5 Euro, booklet included
Combiticket West:Berlin and Märkisches Museum 9 Euro/6 Euro
Under 18 free admission
First wednesday of the month free admission

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History of the Trabant

During the 50s, the family car slowly turned from a luxury item into an everyday product. The Volkswagen Beetle, which was developed in the mid 40s, was produced in West Germany and therefore not available for the population of East Germany. It was 1954 when the East-German authoroties ordered the development of a family car that should not cost more than 4000 Mark. It was called Trabant, which means satellite: a buddy that’s always there to guide you.

In 1955 the first prototype P70 was developed and since 1957 the Trabant P50 was in production, followed by the P60 in 1962 and P601 in 1964. The Trabant, or “Trabi”, was produced by the VEB Sachsenring Automobilwerke in Zwickau untill 1991. More than 3 million cars have been built and almost 80% of the population owned one, sometimes after having been on the waiting list for several years. The “racing cardboard” was made of thermosetting plastic, and filled with a two-stroke engine it could reach 26 horsepower.


The Trabant was competitive to other family cars during the 50s and 60s. Although it was developed further, the SED did not allow modernisations, so that the Trabant fundamentally never really changed and kept the same old-fashioned look for decades.

The car became world famous in 1989, by filling street scenes during the many uprisings, and after the fall of the wall, when the Trabis guided the East German citizens into the western world.

After the reunification of Germany, the end of the Trabant was near. East Germans preferred the wealth of West German alternatives, which had better quality and were relatively more environmental-friendly. West Germans were not interested in the minor quality of the car. The production of Trabants discontinued in 1991.

Nowadays the Trabant has turned into a sympathic cult car and a few are still left. Unfortunately the recent environmental regulations in many German cities keep the cars from the street. Luckily there are exceptions: in Berlin, you can go on a Trabi Safari during various tours through the city in an old Trabant.

Trabi Museum

In 2013 the Trabi Museum opened its doors and is dedicated to the Volkswagen of the GDR and its history. Apart from the standard versions the museum exhibits several extraordinary Trabants, like a cabriolet, a racing Trabant, a Trabi Ferrari (or Ferrabi), a tank Trabant, and -my favourite- a camping Trabi with a tent on the roof. Styled with original GDR toys and other products from the 70s and 80s a visit to the Trabi Museum results in a real Ostalgic experience.

More information

www.trabi-museum.de
Zimmerstrasse 14-15 10969 Berlin-Kreuzberg
U6 Kochstrasse/Checkpoint Charlie
Open daily 10am – 6pm
Entrance fee 5 euro, under 12 free admission
www.trabi-safari.de

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Germania

One of Hitler’s many bizarre ideas was to transform Berlin into “World capital Germania”. It is 1937 when Hitler ordered his architect Albert Speer to redesign the center of Berlin to make it more representative for its new status.

Speer designed a 7km long North-South axis, starting with a station at the north side in Wedding, going southward via a Great Hall (measuring 300m in all dimensions, planned between the current main station and the Reichstag), finally ending at a huge station south of the center, which was planned at the current Südkreuz station. Along the 120 meter broad boulevard important government buildings were planned and all major companies from the Third Reich should get their main offices here. To honour all German soldiers who fought and died during the 1st and 2nd World war a huge Triumphal Arch was designed near the southern station, which should be 120 meter wide, 110 meter deep, and 100 meter high. As we’re talking about the World capital here this was of course many times larger than the Arc de Triomphe in Paris.

Schwerbelastungskörper

There was only one problem: the weak sandy soil of Berlin. It was not clear if such large and heavy buildings would sink into the ground or not. In order to test the load bearing capacity of the ground a 12650 ton heavy concrete body was developed at the site of the Triumphal Arch: the Schwerbelastungskörper. With a diameter of 20 meter, a height of 12 meter and a depth of 18 meter into the ground, it exerts a pressure of 126 ton per square meter, which was more than the Great Hall or Triumphal Arch. When the body sank no more than 2cm into the ground, the soil would pass the test. It was build in 1941, most probably by prisoners of war.


In order to have a nice view on the Great Hall from the entire north-south axis, it was planned that the Triumphal Arch had to be placed 12 meter higher than the existing ground level. This meant roughly that many houses in the surrounding area had to be torn down, the inhabitants of these houses had to move into the houses formerly inhabited by Jewish people who were deported, the total area had to be elevated by 12 meter and that the entire Schwerbelastungskörper would disappear into the ground as well. The whole project had to be finished in 1954 on Hitler’s 65th birthday.

Because of the end of the war the plans for Germania have never been put into practice. Many years after the war was over it was not possible to remove the heavy body, as houses were to near to have it blown up. Apart from being used for some construction test measurements, it has been standing around for more than 70 years being useless.

Today the Schwerbelastungskörper has a monumental status, you can visit it and try to imagine the outrageous design of Germania. And from the 12m high platform next to the body you have a wonderful view over Berlin. Highly recommended!

More information

www.schwerbelastungskoerper.de
General-Pape-Strasse/Loewenhardtdamm
Bus 104 Kolonnenstrasse, S1 Julius-Leber-Brücke
Open April-October Tue Wed 14-18 Thur 10-18 Sun 13-18
Free entrance
Guided tours by the Berliner Unterwelten e.V. every Sunday at 12, 6 Euro (recommended)
www.berliner-unterwelten.de

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It is the year 1953

After world war 2, Germany was divided into four allied occupation zones. The three western zones, controlled by the US, France and Britain, formed the Federal Republic Germany (FRG, BRD), also known as West Germany. The Eastern sector, controlled by the USSR, formed the German Democratic Republic (GDR, DDR), also known as East Germany. West Germany developed as a capitalistic state, East Germany transformed into a socialistic regime influenced by the USSR. Berlin was divided into four sectors as well, controlled by the same states, resulting in West Berlin (British, French and American sector) and East Berlin (Russian sector).

Although the cold war had just started (borders were still open, the ‘rules’ were not clear yet), differences between east and west were already noticeable. Whereas West Germany got to its feet relatively fast, in East Germany the forced implementation of socialism did not work out well for the economy. People were poor, and prices rose due to shortcomings.

Strike

To show the whole world and especially the capitalistic west the ingenious socialistic building quality, the DDR regime had put a lot of money into construction work such as the prestigious buildings along the Stalinallee (today the Karl-Marx-Allee). You were supposed to be proud to be a construction worker in the DDR. Whereas, after Stalin’s death in march 1953, the DDR regime recalled some strict socialistic measures in many sectors, the construction work quotas increased by 10%, which made the construction workers lay down their work on June 16th 1953 and march down the Stalinallee towards Alexanderplatz and the government area. The strike was successful and the government recalled their plan on the same day.

June 17th 1953

The news about the strike went fast, and a giant uprising could not be stopped. As the new system, arranged by the Soviets, was not the East-German idea of a socialistic state, there was a common feeling of suppression. On June 17th, about 0.5 to 1,5 million people took part in a widespread uprising against the DDR regime, and demanded free elections and resignation of the government. More generally, people demanded freedom and democracy, and in the end people wanted unification with West Germany. People were hopeful. The death of Stalin made people feel that even powerful dictators can be vulnerable. Maybe the situation could change. Streets were filled with people marching towards the govermnent area near Potsdamer Platz. Many small fires were started and Red flags were torn down. The government was afraid and the Volkspolizei could not control the situation. Finally, the uprising was suppressed by Soviet troops and the Volkspolizei: there were 25 to 500 deaths (official numbers depending on the regime), thousands of people were arrested and it resulted in a huge amount of refugees from the DDR.

Only 8 years after being the big liberator, the Soviets had become the enemy. The East German population had no chance. The Soviets showed how far their influence reached, the western countries did not take action, as a third world war should be avoided at any costs, and the rules of the cold war became painfully clear.

Strasse des 17. Juni

To commemorate the uprising, June 17th was exclaimed as Tag der deutschen Einheit (German Unity Day) in West Germany, which was a national holiday until 1990 (since the unification of Germany it is celebrated on October 3). Also, the Berliner Strasse and Charlottenburger Chaussee were renamed into Strasse des 17. Juni and it still has its name. By the many events and celebrations which are held on this road, it has become a symbol of freedom.
Ironically, there are two Red Army tanks placed at the Strasse des 17. Juni. These were already here as part of the Soviet memorial of the victory over the National Socialism after the Battle of Berlin, another restless period in the recent history of Berlin.

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This picture looks like an ordinary daily scene in a certain city. The pavement and buildings, and details like the gas lantern suggest that it is probably Berlin. The cars reveal that it is somewhere mid 80s. It has been raining, people walk across the street. The grocery is open.
Just a normal street scenery in Berlin somewhere in the 80s. Yes it is, and no, it isn’t. This is the Dresdener Strasse in Kreuzberg, and 10 meter to the left is the Berlin wall. It is part of a huge panorama “Die Mauer” (The Wall) by the artist Yadegar Asisi, in which the artists shows that every day life behind the Berlin wall was normal, although the location and circumstances were not at all.

Panoramas by Asisi

Yadeagar Asisi (*1955 Vienna) grew up in the East German cities Halle and Leipzig. He studied architecture in Dresden and Art in West Berlin. Since 1993 he works on panoramas which resulted in the worlds largest panoramas in old gasometers in Dresden and Leipzig. Currently, panoramas can be seen in Dresden, about the baroque period, and in Leipzig, about the battle of the nations in 1813. Until 2012 the panorama about Pergamon was exposed in Berlin. Since 2012 the panorama Die Mauer is exposed, near Checkpoint Charlie.

Panorama The Wall

Asisi lived in Kreuzberg in the 80s near the wall. He came up with the idea of this panorama when he was asked what living behind the wall was like, to show how people adapt to conditions as a strategy to survive. Helped by old photos, paintings, drawings and memories he worked 4 years to construct a detailed scenery of a normal fictitious autumn day in the 80s. It resulted in a huge panorama of 60 x 15 meter, supported by light effects and audio fragments.
It’s a nice opportunity to feel the existence of the wall within your heart instead of listing solely the facts. To see the small strip that is left of the Sebastianstrasse (-which you may recognise from Marillion’s Kayleigh videoclip-), children playing, people painting gravity on the wall, tourists touching the wall, making selfies, visitors looking over the wall, the todesstreifen between both walls and pigeons sitting on the wall or just flying around. All spotted by guards in a watchtower….

Absolutely worth a visit!

Asisi Panometer Berlin

Friedrichstrasse 205 (Checkpint Charlie) 10117 Berlin
www.asisi.de
September 2012 till at least the end of 2014
Open Daily 10-18
Entrance fee 10 Euro
U6 Kochstrasse

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