History of the Boros bunker

After the first bombings of Berlin during the 2nd World War, Hitler demanded many bomb-proof shelters for the city’s population. The development of bunkers, in the same renaissance style as of other buildings designed for the World Capital Germania, was lead by Albert Speer.

The Reichsbahnbunker Friedrichstrasse was built for train passengers and employees of the Friedrichstrasse station nearby. Forced labourers built it for 1200 people overground, because of the relatively wet grounds. It was completed in 1942 and gave shelter to about 4000 citizens at the end of the war.

As it was simply not possible to demolish this bunker, without damaging the entire area (the walls are some meters thick), the building was kept and got the status of a monument.

After the war the bunker was used by the Soviet Red Army to detain prisoners of war. Later the building was the ideal warehouse for the storage of textile and of exotic fruits from Cuba by the VEB Obst Gemüse Speisekartoffeln. Hence it was called the Banana Bunker.

In the early 90s, after the wende, it was a perfect venue to host the techno- fetishclub “the Bunker”, also known as “the hardest club on earth”. After a few years, the club had been closed and only a few events took place since then.

The Boros couple bought the bunker in 2003 and renovated it to make it feasibly to house their art collection. Walls were removed to reduce the amount of rooms to 80, and some ceilings were removed to create some split level areas. Although it sounds simple, it was not an easy operation and in this way approximately 3000 square meter of exhibition space was created. On top a unique penthouse was built where the two owners live.

The Boros Collection

The Polish businessman Christian Boros, started to collect contemporary art in 1990. Since then his collection has grown to about 700 works of various kinds, such as photos, paintings and installations by international artists such as Ai Weiwei.
For me the contemporary art itself was just a bonus. It was great being in this building and to experience the contrast between the history of the old bunker and the modern art, which is a unique combination.

Normally you can visit the exhibition only by appointment on friday, saturday and sunday. However, due to a change of the exhibition the Boros bunker will be closed between february and april 2017. As a final chance to see the current exhibition, you can visit the bunker without reservation on january 21st and 22nd between 10 am and 6 pm. There are many guides walking around to explain the works and tell about the history of the building. The bunker will reopen with the new exhibition in may 2017.

More information

sammlung-boros.de
U+S Friedrichstrasse
Reinhardtstrasse 20 10117 Berlin-Mitte
Entrance fee 12 Euro

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Tropical Islands on former Flugplatz Brand. Note the height of the red building crane.

History

It was 1938 just before the war when the open field of a military flightschool turned into Flugplatz Brand, which was used during the war by fight aircrafts and for transportation of goods. In the GDR era the military airport was owned by the Soviets. It got its concrete runway in 1950, after which the airport also held the official state visits from the Soviet Union.
After the fall of the wall when the Soviets had left, the site was cleared from hazardous waste such as jet fuel and munition. The 60 shelters which used to be hangars are still there, just like the ruines of the barracks of the Soviet soldiers.

In 1998 the site was bought by a company in the futuristic lighter-than-air technology, Cargolifter, who built this hall of extraordinary dimensions. It contains 14000 tons of steel and the roof measures 70000 m2. However, the lighter-than-air technology was technically and financially not feasible and Cargolifter went bankrupt in 2002. Since 2004 the hall houses Tropical Islands.

Tropical Islands

Tropical Islands in Brand is unique in its sort. It is a swim paradise, but has some characteristics of a luna park and the setting of The Truman Show as well. You can have a swim in the sea or lagoon, or lay down under the palm treas at South Beach. Or have a walk through the rainforest, see flamingos and experience real bird sound effects. And there are more attractions, such as diving, a sauna, mini golf, a shopping boulevard, and more. You can spend here all day, or even stay the night in a tropical tent or tropical hut inside the dome, or you can camp outside. If that’s too long or too pricey, you can get reduced morning or evening tickets. Don’t forget to bring your flipflops, as the tropical pathways are not that barefoot-friendly.

If swimming is not your cup of tea or you can’t stand the tropical heat, just a walk over the former airport and its runway is amazing. Although both being former airports, the atmosphere is completely different compared to the Tempelhofer Freiheit.

More information

www.luftschiffreise.de/werftbesuch.htm
www.tropical-islands.de
Tropical-Islands-Allee 1, 15910 Krausnick
Reached from Berlin by RE2 or RB19, station Brand. From there you can take a free shuttle bus towards Tropical Islands

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He grew up in Aachen, where his talent for drawing was already present. In 1905 he went to Berlin, where he studied furniture design. During his career as an architect, his work evolved from a neo-classicistic style, influenced by his teachers such as Bruno Paul and Peter Behrens, towards a modernistic style.

In this first part of a series of two, we will look at his early neo-classicistic works in and around South-West Berlin. The second part will be about his later, modern works in Berlin.

Potsdam-Neubabelsberg

We start the tour in Potsdam-Neubabelsberg, just outside the borders of Berlin.

Haus Riehl 1907 Spitzweggasse 3 Potsdam-Neubabelsberg
In 1907, when Mies van der Rohe was only 21 years old, he got his first independent job: philosopher Alois Riehl asked him to design a new cottage house, nowadays known as Haus Riehl. After the war the house was used during the GDR years as the Konrad Wolf highschool for film and television (HFF). The house is currently in private use.

Haus Riehl

Villa Urbig 1917 Virchowstrasse 23 Potsdam-Neubabelsberg
Villa Urbig, also called Haus Seefried or the Churchill Villa, is located in the same area. It was built for the rich banker Franz Urbig. The house’s typical neo-classicistic Schinkel style was one of Mies van der Rohe’s favourite styles. As after the war the garden was unfortunately located in the restricted area along the border between the GDR and West Berlin, the Urbig family could not return to their home. During the Potsdam Conference in 1945, it was the residence of the UK prime minister Winston Churchill. Afterwards the GDR academy for political and law studies situated in the building. It is currently owned and inhabited by a business man.

Haus Urbig

Villa Mosler 1926 Karl-Marx-Strasse 28-29 Potsdam-Neubabelsberg
Villa Mosler is also located in this villa area, next to house where Stalin stayed during the Potsdam Conference just after the war. It was built for the Jewish banker Georg Mosler. He left his house and Germany in 1933, after which the house was confiscated by the German Reich. During the GDR era it held a childrens hospital. Currently it is owned by the same inhabitant, and Mies van der Rohe fan, of Villa Urbig.

Haus Mosler

Berlin-Nikolassee

Going North, you’ll find Haus Eichstädt at Dreilindenstraße 30 in Berlin-Nikolassee. It was built in 1921-1923. Through the trees you can see the classic Schinkel style of the house, although it was built in the early 20s when Mies van der Rohe already developed a more modern style. Today the house is in private use.

Haus Eichstädt

Berlin-Zehlendorf

Further North, at Quermatenweg 2-4 in the Berlin Zehlendorf area, two neo-classicistic buildings from the early years of Mies van der Rohe’s career, can be found: Haus Perls/Fuchs, built in 1911, and Haus Werner, built in 1913.
Haus Perls/Fuchs was built for the art collector and lawyer Hugo Perls, in a typical Schinkel style. Mies van der Rohe also designed the new garden hall in 1928, for the new owner Eduard Fuchs, which already resembles Mies van der Rohe’s modernistic style.

Haus Perls/Fuchs

Haus Werner was designed as a Prussian cottage house. The garden was designed by Mies van der Rohe as well and is the only garden which has been preserved in Germany. Today both houses belong to the Parzivalschule.

Haus Werner

Other early designs by Mies van der Rohe in Berlin are destroyed, such as Haus Kempner and Haus Feldmann both built in 1921–1923, as well as the Revolutionsdenkmal, a memorial dedicated to Karl Liebknecht and Rosa Luxemburg at Zentralfriedhof Friedrichsfelde in Berlin-Lichtenberg from 1926.

In part II we’ll focus on his modernistic works in other Berlin areas.

Public Transport

Potsdam-Neubabelsberg: S7 Griebnitzsee
Berlin-Nikolassee: S1 S7 Wannsee
Berlin-Zehlendorf: S1 Mexicoplatz U3 Krumme Lanke

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Design

The Bierpinsel was built between 1972 and 1976 and is a typical example of the 70’s pop architecture. It was designed by Ralf Schüler and Ursulina Schüler-Witte, the same architects who created the conference center ICC Berlin. It is inspired by a tree and has an integrating function between the highway crossing and the city street underneath, which works pretty natural I think.

History of the Bierpinsel

Originally the 47 meter high building housed a restaurant with a panoramic view, called Turmrestaurant Stegliz. After serving free beer during the opening night it immediately received its nickname Bierpinsel (Beer Brush), because one side of the building has a brush-like shape. Although the word “Bierpinsel” is not an actual word, it made enough sense to keep naming the building like this. Maybe the name Bierseidel would have suited better, as the building actually looks a little bit like an old fashioned beer pint of the 70’s.

Since its opening in October 1976, it housed many -mainly gastronomical- businesses, but none of them managed to survive. The building has been closed since 2002, because it needed a substantial renovation. Due to several reasons nothing has been repaired yet, but there are plans to replace the colourful graffiti by its original red colour and to re-open the bar and restaurant after renovation works, which are planned for 2016. Hopefully this will become reality, 14 years after its closure. Until then you can only take a look at the Bierpinsel from the outside and make a selfie in front of it, like one does with the other famous landmarks which the first-time Berlin visitor just has to see.

More information

You find the Bierpinsel at the crossing Schildhornstrasse/Schloßstrasse in Steglitz.
U9 Schloßstrasse

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Have you ever been driving on highway A115 near the Messe and suddenly noticed a deserted building which resembles a grandstand? Well, in fact it actually is an old grandstand and the road you are driving on used to be the fastest race track in the world: the Automobil Verkehrs- und Übungsstraße, better known as the AVUS. Before World War II, racing cars speeded up to 400km/h on this 19km long track, consisting of two long, almost straights, and two hairpin turns at the ends. As a consequence it was also famous for its many severe and sometimes deadly accidents.

History of AVUS

Early 1900 the use of personal cars grew steadily amongst the wealthy population. As the city of Berlin was much too crowded for a fast and sporty ride, a race track outside the city was developed. Situated in the Grünewald forest along the railway track towards Potsdam. The construction started in 1913, but due to the lack of money after World War I, the first highway in Europe was not finished until 1921. Next to car and motorcycle races, the AVUS was open for private traffic as well. A single ride costed 10 Reichsmark, a three-months ticket 1000 Reichsmark.

In 1926 the first Grand Prix of Germany took place at the AVUS. Despite severe accidents, the races at the AVUS were a succes. Races became faster and faster. Nevertheless the Nazi regime wanted to show the world the fabulous German technique and demanded higher speeds. As the track had its limits for high-speed racing, a perilous 43-degrees-steep bank was build at the north curve. This was the steepest curve ever made and made AVUS the fastest race track in the world. During the consctruction of this curve the AVUS also got its wooden grandstand and the race control tower at the finish. In this period the 1936 Olympic games took place in Berlin and the track was used for cycling and the marathon.

Near the Schlachtensee, at the north side of the AVUS, a new steep banked South curve, comparable to the new North curve, was planned. For this curve a model (scale 1:100) was first built next to its predestined location in the Grünewald. You can still find this concrete mini track in the woods, partly destroyed and overgrown by moss. The real South curve was never finished. Although the forest had been cleared and piles of sand marked the outline of the curve, the construction work was interrupted by Word War II.

In 1937 the German racer Bernd Rosemeyer was the first to reach 400km/h on the AVUS track. The glory did not last long, as the German hero died after a crash during a world speed record attemp on a track near Frankfurt in 1938. Discussions about the dangerous AVUS track and the subsequent outbreak of World War II stopped racing at AVUS.

After WWII the AVUS track was restored and was shortened from 19 to 8km to reduce maintenance costs. Instead of the planned steep banked South curve, a simple turnaround was built near the Hüttenweg. The US allied forces found in the cleared grounds in the forest an ideal spot for a shooting range, the Keerans range. However, the flying bullets were not completely without danger for the sunbathing guests at the nearby Strandbad Wannsee. Ever since the cold war was ended, the US militaries left and nature has taken over. You can still see the open space in the wood and climb onto the piles of sands which marked the curve.

Successful racing took place at AVUS again since 1951. The track was located in West Berlin and therefore also used as a politcal symbol of freedom. The prestigious first race was won by a driver from the GDR. In 1959 the AVUS hosted its only Formule 1 world championship race, the German Grand Prix. The British Tony Brooks won in a Ferrari, but the victory was overshadowed by a deadly accident during the supporting programme.


When the wall was built the succes of AVUS declined. The fastest cars did not find their way to the isolated city anymore. In 1967 the steep perilous North curve was dismantled and the curve was made flat again.

In the 70s the AVUS was connected to the city’s highway network which turned it into a normal highway, including the long traffic jam behind the Dreilinden border crossing. In the opposite direction people entering Berlin via Dreilinden could finally speed up towards the Funkturm, after driving for a long time on the GDR highways with speeds limited to 100km/h.


During the 80s the amount of races at AVUS was highly limited because of environmental reasons and for normal traffic the maximum speed was limited to 100km/h, measures which were opposed to the idea of freedom. The track was made somewhat shorter again and some DTM and Formula 3 races took place. Michael Schumacher took part in three of them. Even with the flat curves, severe accidents happened and the races were still too dangerous.

Since 1998 racing on the AVUS has been history. The speed limit is 100km/h.

AVUS remnants

Today there are some spots that reminds of the glorious racing history at the AVUS.

The straight highway A115 is an important road to enter the city by car. The track between Spanische Allee and cityring A100 near the Messe used to be AVUS. Once a year you can drive on the AVUS by bike during the ADFC Fahrradsternfahrt (2015: June 14th).

Around the North curve you find the following:

• Wooden grandstand at the finish
• Flattened North curve
• The old race control tower with its remarkable Mercedes sign on its roof, nowadays Motel and Restaurant Avus.
• Motorcylists statue, Messedamm

By car easily reached via the highways A100 and A115
Public transport S5 Messe Süd, Messedamm, and via tunnel under the Messedamm towards the inner North curve and Motel Avus


Around the South curve you find the following:

• Cafe Restaurant Spinner Brücke, which is The meeting point for motorcyclists. There is an AVUS monument in the garden.
• Sandy banked South curve and the cleared forest of the former Keerans shooting range. Located along the Kronprinzessinenweg, at about 2km from the Spinner Brücke on the left.
• Model of the South curve, in the forest between the crossing Kronprinzessinenweg / Havelchaussee and the sandy banked South curve. From this crossing, walk about 150m further along the Kronprinzessinenweg towards a walking track on your left, turn left and walk about 50m along this walking track. The model track is on your left at about another 50m into the wood, near a remarkable standing old broken oak.

By car easily reached via highway A115, exit Spanische Allee.
Public transport S1 S7 Nikolassee

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Bye bye Mitte.. read the announcement of C/O Berlin in March 2013, when it had to leave the former imperial Postfuhramt in the Oranienburgerstrasse. Since the end of October 2014 the beloved Berlin photographic institution is back in the Amerika Haus next to the Zoologischer Garten railway station. Hello Charlottenburg!

C/O Berlin

C/O Berlin is established in 2000. Since then it exhibited many renowned national and international visual artists, including Robert Mapplethorpe, Martin Parr, Annie Leibovitz, Anton Corbijn, Karl Lagerfeld and Sybille Bergemann. Also young talents are promoted. Furthermore it organises guided tours, lectures and artist talks.

It had its first exhibitions in the Postfuhramt until it had to leave in 2001. After several years in an old foundry in the Auguststrasse it moved back to the former imperial postoffice in 2006. Although the state of the building did not meet the most modern standards of an art exhibition building, the atmosphere was great and suited perfectly for photography exhibitions. Unique was the old gymnastics hall, where you could almost smell the sweat of postmen playing basketball.

Early 2013, the building was sold and the C/O Berlin had to move out. After 1,5 years it found its new home in the Amerika Haus in Charlottenburg.

Amerika Haus

The Amerika Haus in Berlin was one of the many Amerika Houses in Germany, managed by the US to engage on relations between the US and the FRG, and to learn about American politics and culture. The design by architect Bruno Grimmek was realised between 1956 and 1957 on the occasion of the international building exhibition Interbau. It started as a light, open building, which contained a library, exhibition spaces and a cinema. Over time it gradually evolved into a fortress due to political tensions. In 2006 the institute moved to new US embassy and the building was given back to the city of Berlin.

The building has recently been renovated to get it prepared for the new exhibition venue of C/O Berlin for the coming 20 years. It got a new book store and coffee shop as well. A must-see for photography lovers! And it is located just around the corner of the Museum of Photography and close to the inspiring area around the Kantstrasse, where you can find for example gallery Camera Work and the bookshop Bücherbogen full with books about architecture, photography, art and design.

Until april 10th you can visit the three exhibitions Blow-up, about the film by Michelangelo Antonioni, Lore Krüger-A suitcase full of pictures, with photographs by the Jewish-German photographer between 1934-1944, and Niina Vatanen-Beyond the visible surface with works by the Finnish photographer.

C/O Berlin

www.co-berlin.org
Amerika Haus Hardenbergstrasse 22-24 10623 Berlin
U2 S5 S7 S75 Zoologischer Garten
Open daily 11-20
Admission 10 Euro/5 Euro
Under18 free admission
Annual ticket 40 Euro

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Town Wall

Berlin is famous for its wall, which was built around West Berlin in 1961 to stop the unsatisfied citizens from fleeing out of the GDR. It was torn down 25 years ago, an historic event which will be celebrated and commemorated intensely in the coming months. However, this was not the only wall in the history of Berlin.
The first Berlin wall was actually built in the 13th century. The city originated from the two settlements: Berlin, which was roughly the area between the Spree, the Littenstrasse at the east side and the Rochstrasse at north side, and Cölln, which was the southern part of the Museum Island. One single town wall surrounded both parts, in order to protect its citizens, instead of keeping them inside. The wall remnants which can be found in the Waisenstrasse date from the 14th century, when the original wall had been rebuilt. Because of the expansion of Berlin and Cölln, the original wall lost its function and most of it was torn down and re-used as building material. The small sections of this wall in the Waisenstrasse survived because they were incoporated into houses which were built against it. Since 1948 these remains have a monumental status.

Zur letzten Instanz

One of the few remaining houses that adjoined the old town wall, is used by the oldest restaurant in Berlin. Restaurant Zur letzten Instanz was established in 1621 and has been located at the same spot for almost 400 years, although the current housing was rebuild in 1963. It is said that Napoleon dined here during one of his European trips. I wonder what the Frenchman thought of the traditional Berlin cuisine. It is a cosy restaurant, still serving traditional Berlin food, and in summer you can eat or have a drink on the quiet and pleasant terrace.

Franziskaner Klosterkirche

When you walk a little bit further along the Waisenstrasse you end up at the ruins of the Franciscan Friary Church. The early-Gothic church and the friary were built in 1250 just after the settlement of Berlin in 1237.
After the Reformation, when the friary was closed, the building was used for several other purposes such as a laboratory. Also, the first printing office of Berlin was located here. From the 16th until the 19th century it housed a famous grammar school at which, among others, Karl Friedrich Schinkel, Otto von Bismarck and Erich Rathenau graduated. The complex survived for a long period, until it was bombed during the Battle of Berlin at the end of the 2nd world war. The friary was demolished and turned into a public garden, the ruins of the church were kept and are gradually being reconstructed. Today, the ruin is used as an exhibition space for sculptures and cultural events.

More information

U2 Klosterstrasse U6 S5 S7 S75 Janowitzbrücke
Zur letzten Instanz, Waisenstrasse 14-16, Berlin-Mitte
www.zurletzteninstanz.com
Franziskaner Klosterkirche, Klosterstrasse 73A, Berlin-Mitte
www.klosterruine-berlin.de

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Interbau 1957

Le Corbusier (Charles-Édouard Jeanneret-Gris, 1887-1965) was a Swiss-French architect. He was one of the pioneers of modern architecture in the 20th century and most of his buildings can be found throughout Europe and India. After succesfully realising his Unité d’Habitation (Housing Unit) designs in Marseille and Nantes, Le Corbusier designed his third Unité d’Habitation for the Hansa quarter in Berlin, as part of the international Interbau exhibition of 1957, for which many national and international renowned architects were invited to design new buildings for the Hansa quarter, which was heavily demolished during the 2nd world war. As Le Corbusier’s building was planned to be 141m long, 23m wide and 53m high, it would become too big for the Hansa quarter, so a new location on the hill next to Olympic Stadium was chosen. L’Unité d’Habitation Type Berlin was built between 1956 and 1958 in just 18 months.

L’Unité d’Habitation

Consisting of 17 levels with more than 500 apartments, the building is designed to be a small city in itself with several facilities under one roof such as shops, a post office and a hairdresser. An open-air theatre and a school at the roof top were planned as well but were not allowed by the Berlin local authorities. Also the original dimensions of the apartments, such as the typical ‘human’ height of 2,26m did not meet the German standards of a minimum of 2,50m, which made Le Corbusier decide to officially resign from the project.

The apartments are situated along long hallways in the middle of the building. Next to every door a small panel is found which covers a bread box. The idea was that residents could get their daily fresh bread delivered in this box, but this has never been realised.

Today the Corbusier House has a monumental status. Outside the original facade is kept, inside there is not much left of the 50s design. Most of the first residents have left and many apartments were bought by artists and architects who made several changes. There are still a few original apartments left, which can be visited during special tours. Of all the shops on the ground floor only one kiosk has survived.

You can visit the Corbusier House and take a look yourself whilst enjoying another great view over the western part of Berlin. Or even better, visit it when Hertha is playing, to experience 50.000 people singing passionately next door.

More information

www.corbusierhaus-berlin.de
Flatowallee 16 14055 Berlin
S5 S75 Olympia Stadion

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Whenever you are interested in architecture or design, you’re looking for a design gift from the museum shop, you’d like to get some inspiration for your new furniture, or you just want to have a coffee and cake on a nice and sunny terrace, you definitely should go to the Bauhaus archive. In this museum for design the history of Bauhaus and its influence is documented, and it shows a wide collection of Bauhaus design.

History of Bauhaus

Bauhaus was a school for architecture, design, visual and performing arts. It was founded in Weimar by the architect Walter Gropius in 1919 just after the first world war. It was famous for its minimalistic modern design and functionality, without putting constraints on mass production.
After moving to Dessau in 1925 the school fully flourished and built an international reputation, established by the many famous teachers such as Paul Klee, Wassily Kadinsky, László Moholy-Nagy, Marcel Breuer and the directors Hannes Meyer (1928-1930) and Ludwig Mies van der Rohe (1930-1933).
When in 1932 the nazis came to power, the school moved to Berlin into an old derelict factory, where it had to close in 1933, because it was too progressive, too international and too jewish. Most employees and students emigrated, some were murdered.
Despite its relatively short existence, Bauhaus has had an important influence on architecture and design. Even today the 90 year old classic modern style is not outdated at all.

The Bauhaus Archive – Museum for Design

The escape from Germany of many Bauhaus members before the 2nd World War resulted in a spread around the western world of the Bauhaus heritage. In 1964 plans were made to collect a Bauhaus archive in Darmstadt, in a building designed by Walter Gropius. The project could not be carried through and in 1976 the archive has been built in Berlin. The characteristic building opened in 1979.
The museum shows a large collection of assignments made during many courses such as colour, form, composition, functionality, materials, photography, ceramics, furniture and architecture. Also works from famous Bauhaus masters are shown, such as the Wagenfeld lamp or furniture designed by Marcel Breuer.
Next to the permanent collection, many attractive temporary exhibitions have been held since its opening. From June 25 till September 8 2014 there will be an exhibition about the Russian painter Wassily Kandinsky, who was one of the teachers at the Bauhaus school.
Also the museumshop, which sells posters, books about Bauhaus, and design products, and the cafetaria are worth a visit. The first time I visited the Bauhaus archive, even the food served at the cafetaria was fully designed. Unfortunately, this is not offered anymore.

The real Bauhaus addict should also visit the Bauhaus school in Dessau (www.bauhaus-dessau.de) and the Bauhaus-Museum Weimar (www.klassik-stiftung.de).

Bauhaus Archive

www.bauhaus.de
Klingelhöferstrasse 14, 10785 Berlin
Bus 100 106 187 M29 Lützowplatz
U1 U2 U3 U4 Nollendorfplatz
Open Wed – Mon 10 – 17
Entrance fee Wed – Fri 6 Euro, Sat – Mon 7 Euro
Audio guide recommended, deposit 20 Euro

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